Hiking Yosemite: North Dome Changes the View

There are some Yosemite hikes where you know exactly what you’re going for.

North Dome was one of those hikes.

I’d seen the pictures. I knew we’d end up sitting across the Valley from Half Dome. I knew there would be some pretty incredible views waiting for us when we got there.

What I didn’t know was just how different Yosemite would look from that side of the Valley.

Or that somewhere along the way, I’d stop trying to decide which Yosemite view is the best.

Starting From Porcupine Creek

We started at the Porcupine Creek Trailhead along Tioga Road and headed toward North Dome.

One of the interesting things about this hike is that quite a bit of the trip toward North Dome is downhill.

Normally, that would come with the slightly troubling realization that every foot of elevation you’re losing is something you’re eventually going to have to climb again.

But honestly, it didn’t feel that way.

The downhill was nice, the trail moved along well, and instead of spending the first half of the hike worrying about the return trip, we just enjoyed where we were going.

Besides, we had a side quest to make first.

The Indian Rock Side Quest

On the way to North Dome, we took the spur trail to Indian Rock.

It’s only about an extra half-mile or so, and it was absolutely worth adding to the day.

Indian Rock is Yosemite’s only known natural granite arch, which makes it pretty unusual before you even get there.

Seeing it in person makes it even more interesting.

We walked up to the base, around the back and then climbed up on it, eventually finding ourselves asking what seemed like a pretty reasonable question:

How long can this thing possibly stay standing?

Because when you’re looking at it, it’s hard not to wonder.

There’s this huge piece of granite forming an arch above you, looking like it has somehow managed to balance there for a very long time while gravity and erosion patiently do what they do.

Maybe it’ll be there for thousands more years.

Maybe it’ll outlast all of us.

But standing underneath it, you can’t help looking up and thinking…

That thing could fall any day.

After spending some time exploring Indian Rock, we headed back toward the main trail.

North Dome was still waiting.

Then You See Half Dome

Eventually the trees begin to give way to granite, and you make your way out onto North Dome.

That’s when the hike changes.

Because Half Dome is right there.

And I mean right there.

I’d seen Half Dome from the Valley floor. I’d looked across at it from Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome. I’d seen it from trails and viewpoints around Yosemite.

But this was different.

Somehow, sitting across from it on North Dome, Half Dome actually looked bigger to me than it does standing on the Valley floor looking up at it.

Maybe it’s the perspective. Maybe it’s because you’re staring almost straight across at that massive wall of granite instead of looking thousands of feet up from below.

Whatever the reason, it feels enormous.

And close.

Almost close enough to reach across the canyon and touch.

For a while, Half Dome understandably gets most of your attention.

Then your eyes start wandering.

Clouds Rest sits off to the left. Across the Valley are Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome. Below, you can see a good portion of the Valley floor.

There’s a lot of Yosemite sitting in front of you.

So we did what you’re supposed to do when you’ve walked several miles to get somewhere like that.

We sat down.

Maybe There Isn’t a Best View

Sitting on North Dome, I started thinking about some of the other places I’ve stood in Yosemite.

And every time you reach one of these places, it’s easy to think:

This might be the best view in Yosemite.

But sitting there, I realized I’m not sure that’s the right way to look at it.

Maybe they aren’t supposed to compete with each other.

The view from Sentinel Dome isn’t better than the view from North Dome.

North Dome isn’t better than Glacier Point.

And looking at Half Dome from thousands of feet below on the Valley floor isn’t necessarily better or worse than sitting almost directly across from it.

They’re just different.

Each place gives you a perspective the others can’t.

From one spot, Half Dome towers above you.

From another, you’re looking across the Valley at it.

Move somewhere else and suddenly Clouds Rest dominates the skyline, or El Capitan grabs your attention, or the Valley itself becomes the thing you can’t stop looking at.

Same Yosemite.

Completely different view.

And every one of them can leave you sitting there wondering how you’re ever going to top it.

Maybe you don’t have to.

Now We Have to Go Back Up

Eventually, of course, sitting on North Dome has to turn back into hiking North Dome.

And leaving the dome provided what was easily the toughest part of the day.

You have to climb steeply uphill to reconnect with the trail.

There’s no easing into it.

You leave this incredible place where you’ve been sitting around enjoying the view and pretty quickly find yourself climbing.

Welcome back to the hike.

That section definitely got our attention.

But something interesting happened after that.

The rest of the return wasn’t nearly as bad as we’d expected.

You hear enough about the elevation on the North Dome hike that I think both of us had built up the return trip in our heads. All that downhill we’d enjoyed on the way in was supposed to collect its payment on the way out.

And yes, there was climbing.

But it never really turned into the grind we’d expected.

We just kept hiking.

Eventually, the miles started disappearing behind us and we found ourselves back at the Porcupine Creek Trailhead thinking almost the same thing:

That wasn’t as bad as we thought it would be.

That doesn’t mean North Dome is an easy hike. It’s a substantial day on the trail, and distance, elevation, weather and your own experience level all matter.

But for us, on this particular day, the hike back simply wasn’t the monster we’d expected it to be.

Which made an already great hike even better.

Know Before You Go

If North Dome sounds like one you’d like to add to your Yosemite hiking list, here’s what to know.

The hike from the Porcupine Creek Trailhead is about 10 miles round trip, depending on whether you add the side trip to Indian Rock. AllTrails puts the elevation gain at roughly 2,000 feet, which gives a good idea of the cumulative climbing you’ll encounter as the trail rolls up and down along the way.

The optional side trip to Indian Rock adds about 0.3 mile each way, and in my opinion, it’s well worth the extra distance.

The Porcupine Creek Trailhead is located along Tioga Road, and parking is limited. Because of its location, the trailhead is only accessible by vehicle while Tioga Road is open.

Plan on making a full day of it, bring plenty of water, and check the weather and current trail and road conditions before heading out.

Trail Truth

I’ve stood in a few places in Yosemite and thought I might be looking at the best view in the park.

I’m starting to think I was asking the wrong question.

Maybe the best views aren’t better or worse than each other.

Maybe each one simply shows you something the others can’t.

Sometimes, though, you have to walk a few more miles to see Yosemite from a completely different point of view.

But remember, the trail doesn’t end here.

So until next time, get outside, take the scenic route, and make a few memories. After all, that’s what the best adventures are really about. We’ll see you in the next edition of Hiking Yosemite.